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The duration of the journeys is long to the point of being completely inconvenient, as the country’s railway track is not electrified.

Situated between Romania and Ukraine, Moldova is a melting pot of ethnicities and cultures, and has long been a geopolitical battleground between the east and west.

Georgiana Murariu reports from the capital during its period of transition It’s hard to write about Moldova without immediately resorting to “east-meets-west” type clichés, because to a foreigner, the immediate visual reality is that of a porous grey infrastructure adorned with symbols of what it might have meant to be comfortably capitalist in the 1990s.

Today, the Jewish cemetery is as neglected as could be, and many of the graves have been dismantled and a few even graffitied over.

The many periods of occupation have left a palpable mark on the country, for it is a schizophrenic mix of aggressive capitalism, all-you-can-drink casinos, monk-run insular Orthodox churches, clashing traditions and interests, and crumbling infrastructure.

The gathering seemed to be an eclectic alliance well represented by ex-servicemen who had served in Afghanistan and participated in the Transnistrian conflict in the early 90s (presumably on the pro-unification/Moldovan side).